Excellent post about Colour Theory

Bell Of Lost Souls have posted a very useful Colour Theory tutorial. Well worth a read


Which came first, the army or the list?

So Ron asked us to consider the question "Which came first, the army or the list?" - So here it, my way of building an army...

The first stop for a new army is the Codex. I will usually flick quite quickly through the codex on first purchase, mainly looking at the big colour photos of the models. Once i have spent a while looking at the Codex photos, i will usually have a colour scheme or two in mind. At this point the process splits in to two parts:
  • Normally i would get a couple of models from the army that i am collecting and do rough paint jobs on them. What i am trying to achieve is a good even look that can be replicated quickly, easily and neatly over many hundreds of models. Paint jobs usually consist of a base coat and then a wash, or in some cases a dip.
  • At the same time, i would be looking at the codex to put together a basic army list. Normally i would start with the obligatory HQ + two Troops choices. To this i would add a couple of units that particularily stand out as being particularily interesting to paint. The army list would normally be around 1000Pts (as i find its a good number to aim for; there is enough scope there for a reasonable game).
This whole process usually last about a month or so - Notice that in this entire period i havent bought any models! I find that planning goes a long way in to the satisfaction you can get from painting a whole army. Once i am happy with the first 1000pts I will buy everything i need to paint those models. That includes all the paint, brushes etc. Nothing worse than starting a project and not having enough of a certain colour - especially if you are mixing custom colours (which in my experience is generally a bad thing for armies).

Next step is to paint up the models. Generally they are painted in bulk, around 10 models at a time.

Once the first 1000pts is painted and i've had a game or two with them, ill know the army a lot better. At this stage i will start to add more units, either focussing on the things the army is lacking (for example Heavy Support or maybe some Fast Attack) or on units that i specifically want in the army. Although you dont necessarily get an "ultimate, kill everything it takes on" army in this way, i find that you do get a characterful army that you enjoy painting and playing with.

The original question here was "Which came first, the army or the list?". I would say in response, neither - the relationship between my army and the list is a symbiotic one. Each part plays against the other and influences the way the army and the list evolve.


Viridian Sniper

So recently ive been taking a break from my guard (Im sick of painting guardsmen!) and working on a few single miniatures. The first to be finished is a Viridian Sniper from Urban Mammoth
This is a very nice model that with the addition of a scenic base forms a very single single miniature.
Painted as always with vallejo game colour, citadel washes and mig weathering powders. On an aside i was working on my photography as well with this post - hopefully the images here should be a lot better than previous attempts.
Comments welcome as always on both the miniature and the photography...


FTW December Round Table

So for the current FtW round table discussion Ron posed the question

"You have just been put in charge of Warhammer 40k for GW.
They would like to know what you think the company should do with the start of the new year.
What are the Top 3 things you would change about Warhammer 40k?"

Which started me thinking - what would i want to change in the 40K world. Originally when i looked at the question, my first reaction was to change some of the rules - to bring back some things that i think are missing (overwatch!) and to remove some things that i think make games unbalanced ("And they shall know no fear").

But then i started to realise that in many ways, the current 5th edition of 40K is actually quite a decent game. Sure it doesnt have all the intricacies of "Rogue trader" nor the totally silly weapons of the second edition, but it is fast and fun to play, and for the most part the designers have do a good job of clarifying and cleaning up the rules.

So having moved on from the game in general, i started to think about everything that surrounds gaming, and how i would improve that... Here are the answers that i came up with -

1. Setup an online community forum with experimental rules and interaction with gamers before, during and after release of main rules and codex include better online errata rules for each army, including a points calculator / unit development tools for creating your own custom units at home.

I have always had a bit of a problem with the fact that GW puts out rulebooks full of errors, and then takes ages to put up any erratta for them. When the errata does come out, it tends to be a very brief overview and doesnt answer some of the more detailed problems.

There doesnt seem to be any proper interaction between the GW designers and the people who play the games (namely us!). What i would like them to do is to setup a web forum, which the designers frequent and on which you could ask questions, get definitive answers, as well as helping to play test new rules that are coming up - For example, so of the changes to the vehicle rules between 4th and 5th editions could have been trialled in this way.

I would also really like to see the designer be more open about the way that they develop the points cost for the units they design, and if possible to make available the calculation tools that they use (I have this theory that its just an Excel file that they input some numbers to and it gives them a points cost - similar to what they have for Battletech etc).

With this sort of tool it would be trivial to create custom units that were "somewhat" official (in the sense that the points were at least in the right range...).

2. Provide software tools for army building that are included with a copy of the codex, which run completely cross platform (Mac OS, Linux, Windows)

Okay so I will freely admit that I am a nerd (and judging by the fact that most people reading this are also bloggers, gamers and painters I would guess the same applies to many of you!) and that this one is a nerdy request, but why is it, in this day and age that 40K codexes (codicies?) dont come with a set of database files for a well designed piece of software that allows you to build and setup your army? I know there was the poor thing that GW put out a year or so ago (and promptly forgot about) and I know that there is "Army Builder", but both of these applications are Windows only. Let me say this loud and clear


In an ideal world, i would really like this to be included with each codex, along with templates for basic armies, images of painted models for that army and a PDF copy of the codex - (maybe on a locked memory stick for copy protection purposes?). Okay, it might add a small amount to the cost of the codex - which lets face it are not exactly cheap at the moment, but think of all the time it would save and hastle playing round in Excel. However, i dont want it all digital - for gaming at a friends house the paper codex will always be needed.

3. Bring out plastic titans!

Yep, everyone wants a titan (or three!). So i'd put together multiple kits (Warhound, Reaver, Warlord, Gargants etc) for as many armies as possible. Then put them out as plastic kits at under £100. I'd put money on them being one of the most popular kits they make.

So there we go, my 3 ways to chnge the 40K landscape. Comments welcome as always, and thanks to Ron for such an interesting round table idea!


Painting 3 Baneblades...(Part 1)

For a game of Apocalypse that me and friend have planned ive been working on a Steel Fury Apocalypse unit - this consists of 2 Baneblades and 1 Baneblade command tank - Yes, that is 3 Baneblades in one unit! As i was painting them, i took stage by stage photographs. These are included with a basic tutorial of how i painted the models.

Stage 1
Once i had bought and assembled the units (a very enjoyable experience i must say - the Baneblade really is one of the best kits ive ever put together), i undercoated each Baneblade with several coats of Chaos Black undercoat.

In total each model have around four or five coats on each part (two lascannon mountings, turret, Hull Heavy Bolter and main hull). I then left each Baneblade to dry for approximately 24 hours.

Stage 2
Next each Baneblade has Vallejo "Wolf Grey" lightly airbrushed over each panel, concentrating on the center of each panel

By the time i had finished the third tank, the first was dry, and i then applied a second light coat of wolf grey, covering mostly the same areas. If you havent tried using an airbrush on a tank before, i highly recommend it. The finish that can be achieved in far superior to brush painting, and other effects are easy to learn. Whilst there is some initial outlay (i use a Spray Master kit that i got on Ebay for about £70) the differnce it will make to your vehicles i vast. However, i digress....

After the second pass of "Wolf Grey" each tank then had a mix of "Wolf Grey" and "Stonewall Grey" airbrushed in to the very center of each panel, lightly. Sorry about the photo above - it came out a lot bluer than the actual tank is. Later photos show this more clearly.
One question that friends tend to ask me, is about the consistency of my paint when airbrushing - although this depends on the colour and the effect that you are after, normally i work at a 1:1 paint / water ratio. The paint ideally should be about the same thickness as semi skimmed milk. This is similar to the ratio of water and paint that i would use when brush painting, so i guess its habit more than anything.

Stage 3
Once the "Wolf Grey" basecoat was complete on all 3 tanks i gave each one a light dry brush using "Stonewall Grey" and "Bone White" mixed together, in varying amounts. Initially i focussed on wide areas using a high concentration of "Stonewall Grey" and then as i added more and more "Bone White" i concentrated more on the absolute hard edges

Stage 4
Painting the tracks and other metallic areas was next - I like to paint these in a mid grey to start with, as a good flat backing fot the mettallics and then work in the metal with the weathering and mud (shown in a future post!). The first thing i did here was to mask off any areas that could potentially catch the overspray from any parts. Main areas that i concentrated on were the tracks and the gun points

Once the areas had been masked off the exposed areas were given several light coats via airbrush of Vallejo "Cold Grey". Once this was dry, the masking tape was carefully peeled away

Stage 5
Once the Grey on the tracks was dry they were given a watered down coat of MIG Pigments "Standard Rust" pigment mixed with a lot of water. You can see the combination in the photos below

If you havent used MIG Pigments before, i highly suggest that you get hold of some. They are basically artists pastels ground up to a fine powder. You can make you own by rubbing a pastel on a piece of fine sand paper (this is something that i use later on in this tutorial, for "soot" effects on gun barrells etc). If you are using the pastel method, make sure that you dont buy oil based pastels as these are no good and will simply smear on your nicely airbrushed tank.
The mixture of pigment and water was then liberally splashed all over the tracks.

Once this first coat had dried a second coat was applied, using the same wash. You will notice that the pigment stains in a way very different from inks / washes. One thing that is very cool is that you can use a wet brush to move the particles of the pigment around, even after the wash has dried!

Once dry this gave a nice rusted effect to the tracks, as seen in the image below. Although not much of this rust effect will be visible once the mud and other debris has been added, it non the less gives a more "used" look to the tank where the tracks are visible

Stage 6
The next stage was to add mud effects to the track areas of the tanks. This was acomplished in several simple steps -

    First the entire underneath of the tank and the edges of the tracks and skirts were given a light airbrush of watered down Vallejo "Charred Brown" followed by a light airbrush of Vallejo "Earth". This gave a good base coat for the mud to come.

    A mix was then made of Vallejo "Plastic Putty", Vallejo "Charred Brown", Vallejo "Earth" and MIG Pigments "Basic Earth". I also mixed in a large handful of "Burned Earth" static grass. This was then liberally applied to the base, tracks and skirts, covering roughly the same area as the airbrushed in step 1, but leaving some of the base colour to show through. The Plastic Putty means that the mixture remains malleable for a good while (I usually find that the working time is about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the exact ratios). This is usually more than enough time to get the mud down. I try to avoid key areas that would avoid mud in real life (If you look at real tracks, mud doesnt generally collect on the actual face plate of the tread, because it is constantly moving) and also try to avoid splashing mud too high up the side of the skirts - in real life, this is what the skirts help to do; prevent mud from getting in to the drive mechanism!

    Once the mud has dried it gives a very realistic effect, as can be seen in the photos below. The static grass especially give an extra dimension to this effect, and especially if you move the grass whilst the Putty is still wet you can achieve really great results!

    To be continued...


    To dip or not to dip, that is the question...

    Recently i started to play with the "Army Painter" series of minature dips as a way of bulk painting squads of miniatures. Being an imperial guard player ive found that it can be soul destroying to finish painting a ten man squad and realise that you have only added 100 pts to your army total!

    On a random trawl around the web, i started to read more and more about the painting technique of "dipping" - essentially you block colour a miniature and then "dip" it in a stain - the stain acts as a wash and a coat of varnish. For a more complete description of dipping, check out this article over at Dysartes.com.

    So after a bit of research i went with a tin of "The Army Painter Dark Tone" - This is the darkest shade available, and i quickly discovered that the tone is very dark - to achieve the final shade that i wanted, i generally had to paint the base coat 2 shades lighter than i normally would. However, with a bit of experimentation i found that i was achieving a reasonable looking set of models, especially when used 'en-masse'. Suddenly i was able to have the uniform looking, large army that I had always wanted - I never was much good at painting armies, because i would focus too much attention on each model and never get squads finished!

    Unfortunately its given me a bit of a pause for thought - whilst i enjoy being able to paint a large army quickly it does mean that im not painting 'properly' any more. Because of limited time around work, i have to make a decision about what to work on - and usually its the army. At the same time it feels like im losing my painting 'skills' because they are not being used.

    So im wondering, how do other people deal with this impasse - Do you have ways of working single models in to your painting schedule? I had considered enforcing a 'one unit for the army' then 'one single model' rotation, but knowing myself, im sure ill find that hard to follow...


    Imperial Armour Model Master Class Vol 1

    I thought i would write a quick review of Imperial Armour Model Master Class Vol 1 which ive just recieved from my darling wife as a birthday present!!

    First off - the presentation of the book. As usual for Forge World, it is an impecably packaged product, being presented in full colour and on glossy paper. As per the Imperial Armour books it is an 'oversized' book (roughly the same size as the Apocalypse book from GW), and the photos are lavish with detailed text accompanying each photo.

    The book is split in to 17 chapters. Each chapter focussing solely on one model / diorama at a time. Each chapter is long enough to give you the key points with regards to this model. By doing it in this way, it forces you to read the whole book before you jump in, because techniques sometimes feel like they are spread throughout the book. However, each technique is demonstrated clearly and with simple steps.

    Lots of the book focuses on the preperation and painting of rust and weathering (A good thing!)
    Unusually for a Games Workshop publication it actually includes references to materials other than those manufactured by GW themselves, in this case specifically mentioning several brands of thinners and pigments to use.

    At the back of the book is a small gallery showing a battle taking place over a custom gaming table with apocalypse size forces, including a couple of titans. These photos are simply stunning! Infact in many ways this book is worth possessing simply for the quality of the photos, even without the text (although the text is very good). Simply looking at other peoples work can inspire new ideas for working with your own models.

    This book is clearly not aimed at the inexperienced modeller however. In several places on the book cover and in the introduction is clearly states this - with good reason! Without a good grounding in basic / moderate miniature preperation and painting it will be hard to make the best use of the information contained within.

    I have absolutely no reservations in recommending Imperial Armour Model Masterclass - although it is an expensive book to purchase (£26), in my opinion it should be required reading for any serious 40K treadhead! The photos are excellent, the text is informative and well written and the layout is clear


    Minature Photography II

    Just came across a second post by Ron over at From The Warp - This time about lighting when photographing minatures. This is another excellent post, and well worth the time to read. When i get a chance at the weekend i'm going to try out some of the things that Ron suggests.. You can read the article here


    Joining the FtW Blogger Group

    So i just got an email from Ron, accepting my request to join the
    ++ From The Warp ++ Blogger Group! Im still waiting on more information about the group, but im just about to upload a new title banner with the FtW blogger logo on it! I have to say, i'm really quite excited to be joining FtWBG - At the moment, my interaction with other gamers is limited to my friend Chris and the guys in the local GW. I'd really like to meet and talk to other gamers, and it seemed to me that this was an excellent route to take!
    If you want to read more about the FtW Blogging group, you can on this page - and here is the logo


    STC-Defense Laser Turret Tutorial

    Just came across this tutorial about making very nice STC defense laser turrets for 40K, or similar futuristic game systems...


    Miniature Photography

    So after my last post about miniature photography, i figured that i would try out some of what i had read, and try and improve the quality of the photography on the site.
    The first thing that i did was to setup a sheet of white paper, underneath my OTT-Lite. OTT-Lites give out "daylight" (that is, light of the same frequency as daylight), so it gives a very natural look to the models. You can see this setup in the picture below


    I decided to use the HQ from my Tau as these were the impetus for learning more about miniature photography - I really like my small Tau army and wanted to put it online for a few people to take a look at. Unfortunately the only photos i have of the Tau are low res phone cam pictures, not really suitable for a blog!
    Once i had the miniatures setup, i placed the camera approximately 3-4 inches from them (on the picture above its about where the edge of the green cutting matt is). I then found the first problem - the OTT-Lite was casting very bad shadows, which you can see in the image below:


    So i used another angle poise light that i had lying around and taped a piece of toilet tissue over it. I moved this around trying out various shots, which you can see below, in their "raw" state:


    Once i had taken a couple of dozen shots, i pulled them all in to photoshop, and after consideration chose these two images to work with:



    Ive only performed basic operations on these files - I've altered the size, cropping and adjusted some colour balance...



    So, my first proper attempt at miniature photography is done, and i have to say, it went "kinda" well - On the plus side, the images i have captured are a lot better than the previous attempts. But the colour is still a little too blue for my liking (the greys are too blue in the images - in reality they are a much more neutral grey). Oh well! Practice makes perfect!


    Photography of miniatures...

    Given how bad my miniature photography is, as can be seen by the shots on this site, i decided to do some reading about photography of miniatures. And i came across this blog post on "From the Warp" - There are some excellent details on there about photographing miniatures which i will hopefully be able to apply to future pictures that i take..

    Addendum! Ive also just found this very handy post about how to make a home made Lighting box for photographing your minis


    New site design...

    Well ive finally found some time to sit down and edit the theme for my blog... I quite like it at the moment, but im sure that in a few weeks ill decide that i dont like it and change it round again.. But for the moment, im happy


    Imperial Flags

    So ive been working on my imperial guard a lot recently for a big game i have coming up. One thing that i noticed that was missing was flags - I wanted to have a consistent flag style throughout the army, so ive designed on in photoshop, using the Aquila shape that i used in my last post.

    It a generic flag design, i simply add the unit name and serial code in to the scroll boxes and then print it out.

    Ive included it below. Feel free to use it for whatever you want. Its all my own work, except for the purity seals which came from here and which i subsequently scaled down. I tend to move these for each unit, so they dont look too uniform.
    Ill include some shots of the flags within units once the game is out of the way!

    Aquila custom shape for photoshop

    Recently ive been working on flag designs for vehicles and units. My general system for working with flags for my army is to design it in Photoshop and then print it out. Whilst this doesnt look quite as good as doing a full flag work up, using thin metal sheet and painting the design in place, it does have the advantage that it is quick to do, gives a good uniform look to the army and means that i can have many chances to get exactly the design i would like without having to re-undercoat and start the design from scratch.

    Anyway, the thing that i find myself needing a lot is the imperial aquila (the double headed eagle!). After a long time of simply drawing it again and again, i decided to create a Photoshop custom shape using paths. That way i can simply drag a single vector shape on to the flag and have it rescale nicely each time i resized the image. I figure that this would be useful to other people, so i have made my custom shape available here

    This custom shape was created for use in Photoshop CS2. Im assuming that it will work in other versions of Photoshop as well, but unfortunately i do not have access to other types of photoshop to test this - Let me know if you get it working in other packages!

    You are free to do as you wish with this shape. Obviously it is based on Games workshops IP (and i make no challenges to this), but the actual shape was entirely my own work, based on a sketch that i did. The only thing that i would ask is that you dont claim to have created this shape yourself!

    Below is a basic version of the Aquila, to show you what it looks like. Hopefully other people will find this as useful as i have...


    Foam arrived!

    Well the foam from Mike over at Terranscapes have just arrived... They are absolutely perfect and will save me buckets of time. You can see most of the set in picture below. After i saw the youtube video i posted a couple of weeks ago i realised that Mike had cut some parts wrong. I emailed Mike and he recut the parts, and then included the mis-cuts with the shipment - This is awsome, i now have many ideas for the miscuts alone!
    More detail on this project will follow...


    Imperial Guard Font...

    Ive been playing around with airbrushing Logos and vehicle identifiers on to tanks recently. I find that transfers never set properly and never look exactly right. Ill do a full post on the technique i use in a later post, but for the moment, i wanted to discuss fonts. Originally i was just using Arial in my tests and it never looked quite right. When i started to google it occured to me (duh!) that military vehicles use a military font. So after a bit of googling i found Da Font which has an excellent collection of military fonts. I went for Gunplay which nicely matches the style i am going for...


    Another tank weathering site...

    Just stumbled across this site which details a few other ways of weathering AFV's - A nice one that id not come across before includes using artists pencils...


    Custom Foam Pieces

    Just had an email from Mike over at Terranscapes, letting me know that my custom pieces of foam for a terrain project are ready. Ill be talking about this project in more detail in a future post, but for the moment, take a look at the youtube video that Mike has posted for me...

    Just as an aside i wanted to comment on how helpful, knowledgable and friendly Mike has been. I would *highly* recommend Mike / Terranscapes - the price for custom work is excellent, the work is good and as mentioned already, Mike is a great guy to contract from - Even if you arent interested in custom work, their pre-made terrain is awsome as well (just take a look at these trench sections for an example!)


    More tank modelling sites...

    So ive just found two more ultra cool tank modelling blogs / sites.
    The first is Ultrawerke - This site focusses on tutorials that apply to sci fi and "real world" tanks. It is very handy reference site...
    The second site is Fichtenfoo, an oddly named site, but which has an excellent tutorial on putting together a WW2 Russian tank - Almost all of the techniques are usable on 40K Tanks tho


    Magnetic Flying Bases

    Having recently broken one of the flying stands of my Tau Devilfish, i was interested to read this blog topic about making magnetic flying bases... Seems like a simple and efficient method of magnetising your flying bases! Now if i can just find some time in amongst the guard, the terrain, the tanks...


    Cool tank modelling site

    Ive just come across panzermodelbau - a very cool site that has lots of galleries and diaramas of WW2 Panzer tanks. Whilst the site deals with "Real world" tanks it is an excellent source of painting ideas for Sci-fi tanks and vehicles


    City fountain finished...

    For a while ive been thinking about the idea of having a fountain in the middle of my city - sort of a devotional garden.. So after a while of thinking about it, i came up with the idea of a small walled fountain with grassy edges and a heroic guardsman statue in the middle.
    The construction itself was simple - For the walls i used the small parapets from the GW COD box (I had some left over from another building). The tiled floor was simply cardstock cut in to sections.

    For the statues base i cast the packet from a battery using basic plaster, then set the guardsman atop it (Its actually a model of a US Marine from a modern day combat skirmish game that i picked up at last years salute, and id been wondering what to do with it! - The scale was a bit big to use as an actual guardsman, but the pose was perfect for the statue). To form the fountain base i cut a piece of plastic piping to the right height and then topped it with a circle of card cut using compass cutters. Finally i packed out the inside edge of the fountain with more plaster.

    Once I had finished the construction it was undercoated in GW black and then airbrushed with cold grey and then stonewall grey. The ground was given a coat of Vallejo "Earth" and the tiles with Vallejo "Gore Red" and "Charred Brown" mixed 50:50. The "water" in the fountain was painted with various Vallejo Blues and greens (I mixed up a big batch of different colours and then just dabbed them in place, letting the colours bleed in to each other whilst still wet). Once all the paint was dry i put a layer of "Summer grass" and "Blasted Turf" static grass on to some areas of the earth section. I wanted to give the impression of a lawn that was once well cared for but which was now dried out and burned.

    Finally once everything else was dry i put a very thin layer of GW water effect in the fountain.
    You can see the results below.


    New road sections complete

    One of the main projects that ive been working on is a complete, modular, Cities of Death table for an upcoming 40K / Apocalypse game that me and a friend have planned. We are going to be playing on a 10'x5' table, so we decided that we needed to have a good amount of terrain, and for a long time ive wanted to do a fully modular table.

    Unfortunately storage is a big factor for me as i only have a small amount of space that wargames can take up, so doing big 2'x2' boards was out of the question. In the end i went for the City boards produced by Miniature Scenery - Im using the Urban Grounds packs. These give you 9"x9" boards (roughly) and a whole load of road sections.

    Having played games on "COD" tables, i've found it hardest to play on the tables where there is too much rubble, so ive gone for a slightly sparse look to my table - Although it doesnt look as good, it does make it easier to play the game - We usually count any areas of rubble as being difficult terrain meaning that we both know exactly what to expect from a piece of terrain.

    Given that i have to cover a large amount of the table, ive decided to use a quick and efficient paint scheme, combined with plastic buildings (mainly the GW COD boxes and a few bits from Peggasus Hobbies and Antenociti's Workshop).

    To paint i first put the models together, then undercoat using GW's choas black spray.

    Then i airbrush the entire model (except road sections) using Vallejo Cold Grey (which is about the same as GW Codex Grey)... (On a seperate note, i plan to do a full post about airbrushing terrain in the future)

    ...followed by a lighter airbrush of Vallejo Stonewall grey (not sure what GW this is equivalent to) - Sorry about the quality of this photo, no matter how hard i tried it kept coming out ultra light...

    Road sections are then painted by brush in pure Choas black.

    And thats it! They look kinda basic but when put together they give quite a nice effect


    Orc Progress

    I've been painting (in amongst my other projects) an Orc warlord produced by Avatars of war - Its been a very enjoyable miniature to paint, as are all of the AOW mini's that ive looked at so far. Anyway, here is a work in progress shot to show you roughly where i am at. Oh and please excuse the photo - best i could do at the moment. Im slowley learning about mini photography - so hopefully my pics will improve with time!

    New Miniature Mentor Video out!!

    Great news, the new Miniature Mentor video is out. Hopefully this will be as good as their other videos. If you havent heard of MM they produce high quality detailed download movies focussing on certain minature painting techniques. Having bought quite a few other painting tutorials in the past, MM is the only one that i would really recommend. The filming quality is excellent (no blurry / out of focus shots), the painters they feature are truly world class and the price of the downloads is very affordable. Check their stuff here - http://www.miniaturementor.com/


    My first post

    So i've spent years saying "I have no need for a blog!" - Well now ive found a need!
    I'll be using this blog to detail my terrain and army building progress as it happens over the near future. Mainly its so that i can see my own progress and keep myself motivated - and hopefully this will give other people some help and inspiration!