Tau Hammerhead Step by Step part 5

Small update this time. Once the model had dried thoroughly from the last stage (I always like to give Kleer a long time to dry), I start to apply the "flashes" and colour blocks. Any "light" areas were painted using P3 Menoth White Base in the normal way with a brush. Then i masked off the nose cone and painted the stripes using P3 Heart Fire.

Once these sections were dry, I used a sponge to apply chips in Chardon Granite. There were applied lightly, and once dry, I corrected some parts by using either more granite (where the effect was too light), or the base coat (where the effect was too much). Finally the granite marks were highlighted with white.

For the next stage, I then washed the entire vehicle with various oil colours, but starting from a base of Burnt Umber. These washes were very thin - Basically they were coloured Turpentine. This kind of wash is often called a "Filter" in AFV modelling. The next thing to be applied (once the washes had been left to dry for a couple of hours) was "spotting" - this makes the final surface much less even, and gives nice graduation to the colours (I'm planning on doing a longer post about these techniques in the near future).

All metal parts were then drybrushed with Tin Bitz (or whatever the vallejo equivalent is called), followed by a dry brush with Chainmail. Once those layers were dry, the metal areas then got a dry brush of neat Burnt Umber and Black oil paints, to bring the metallic effect down a bit and to give them a "harder" look. Finally i recoated any areas that wold be solid black on the final model - The intakes for the boosters as the under carriage / landing gear.

The model was then set aside to dry for at least 48 hours before the next stage of weathering could take place


Tau Hammerhead Step by Step part 4

Lots of progress for this step... First, I fully finished the assembly of the model. The Tau vehicles never seem to go together easily for me, but with a lot of sanding it started to approach an acceptable level. I then mounted each of the separate parts on to styrene rods, for easier handling.

The next stage was to spray all the parts in Citadel black undercoat. I only have one hard and fast rule when painting - White undercoats for soldiers, Black undercoats for tanks! I find that by using black as the undercoat you can get great effects easily when using the airbrush.

I was aiming for a look of a Bull shark with this model , lighter grey underneath, getting darker on the top, and with a black "spike" on the "nose". Unfortunately the photos of this part didn't come out particularly well. In Real Life (tm) the blending is much smoother between the light under belly and the darker top. The darkest section is Tamiya German Grey and the lighter part is Tamiya Neutral Grey. These were airbrushed on in many light coats. Finally the black spikes were added. To finish the airbrushing stage the entire model was given a coat of Johnsons Kleer, to give a nice satin finish for the next stages - the weathering...